Razer Launch Abyssus Mouse

"Razer have made a return to basics with the launch of the Abyssus gaming mouse"

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Razer go back to basics
 
Razer have just launched the Razer Abyssus gaming mouse, a return to the stripped down peripherals of their earlier successes. The combination between simplicity of design, but with the very latest in sensors, the Razer Abyssus is ready to frag.
 
Razer Abyssus
 
Robert "Razerguy" Krakoff, President of Razer said :
 
"Less is more. We’ve taken our ambidextrous three-button mouse design and loaded it with our industry-leading technology without the added cost of too many bells and whistles. Our goal with the Razer Abyssus is to give competitive gamers access to gaming grade hardware without breaking the bank." 
 
The Razer Abyssus comes complete with two large non-slip buttons tuned for maximum tactile feedback and features Razer’s Hyperesponse™ technology. Underneath, Razer has included two mechanical switches, one for on-the-fly dpi changing between  450, 1800, or 3500dpi, and one that adjusts the polling rate, allowing adjustments between 125hz all the way up to 1000hz.
 
Capable of 60 to 120 inches per second under 15g of acceleration, the Abyssus is set for even the most demanding gamer. With Ultraslick Teflon feet, a seven foot long non-tangle cord and a 24 click scroll wheel, Razer haven't compromised quality, in delivering a return to simplicity of execution.
 
It retails at $49.99, €39.99  and is currently available from Razerzone.com themselves, with a worldwide release in late December 2009.
 
 
Is this the kind of mouse you've been craving? Discuss in our forums here.
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Most Recent Comments

02-11-2009, 19:54:44

Coopsman1
I have ordered a HAF932 case and I was wondering if many of you have painted the inside of the case

Also is there any benefit from this or is it just cosmetic, and how do you go about doing it

Thanks all

03-11-2009, 09:16:37

tinytomlogan
Its just cosmetic.

Case is steel which makes it alot easier, just read some painting guides cos I cba posting everytime some one asks how to paint something.

prep/prime/prime/prime/prep/colour/colour/colour/laquer if you have the time to get it looking right if not leave it/polish

03-11-2009, 17:12:44

Kylevdm


prep/prime/prime/prime/prep/colour/colour/colour/laquer if you have the time to get it looking right if not leave it/polish



As a basic guideline yes, but READ THE INSTRUCTIONS ON THE PAINT!!!!

but as tom says read up some guides

04-11-2009, 15:36:33

meticadpa
Prepping
1 - Take apart the case and tape off any parts you do not want to paint.
2 - Take a sheet of 220 grit sandpaper and put it on the sanding block and scuff up the surfaces of the case. You want the surface to feel a little rough, because that means the primer will stick better. However, do not gouge into the metal and try to remove material.
3 - Next take a shop towel and put some rubbing alcohol on it and rub down the case to clean it off. Try to get into every spot and clean it off as much as you can.
4 - Take the air can and spray down the case to get any loose dust out of it
5 - Let the case dry for 15 minutes, and while you are waiting, take your primer and shake it up for about 15 seconds. Then put it in the bucket of hot water for about 5 minutes to warm up the can. Once the can is warm, take it out and dry it off, then shake it up for about 1 minute.

Priming
6 - Put the case in the area you are spraying, make sure it is well ventilated and not dirty. Now, spray the case with the primer. Go in a horizontal sweeping motion from bottom to top. Each sweep should overlap a little bit. Keep the can about 6-12" away from the case and make sure you go evenly. Do not worry if you do not cover the case in 1 coat.
7 - Wait about 2-3 minutes to let it dry, then spray another coat using the same motions. Once the case is fully covered let it dry according to the instructions on the can.
8 - Once it has dried long enough to sand, take it and sand it down LIGHTLY with 400 grit sandpaper. You do not want to remove the primer completely, but just get rid of any unevenness. If you do sand all the way through that is okay.
9 - Once you are done sanding, wipe it down with a shop towel and rubbing alcohol. Then spray it with the compressed air and let it sit for 15 minutes.
10 - Warm up the primer again and shake it up after. Then again, do another couple coats and let it dry.
11 - Once it has dried long enough sand it VERY VERY LIGHTLY with 600 grit sandpaper. You do not want it too smooth that the paint cannot stick.
12 - Once you are done sanding, wipe it down with rubbing alcohol and then spray it with compressed air and let it sit for 15 minutes.

Painting
13 - Warm up your paint in the hot water just like you did the primer.
14 - Spray a coat just how you did the primer, even sweeping motions from bottom to top. Do 1-2 coats, letting each coat dry 2-3 minutes.
15 - Once the case is covered, let the case dry for however long the can says before it can be wet-sanded.
16 - Rub down the case with the tack cloth to remove any extra paint particles
17 - Take your 800 grit sandpaper and get it wet in a bucket of warm water. Sand your case lightly to move some orange peel and any drips. Make sure you are rinsing the sandpaper frequently so the paint does not build up in the sandpaper. If you sand through the paint that is okay, but do NOT sand through the primer or you will have to start over.
18 - Once you have finish sanding, wipe the case down with rubbing alcohol and spray it with compressed air. Let it dry for 15 minutes.
19 - Get your paint warmed up again and spray your case with 1-2 coats in the same sweeping motion and from bottom to top. You must be very careful to not mess up here because you are not sanding after this coat.
20 - Let your case dry however long the can says until it can be clear-coated. Then wipe it down with rubbing alcohol and let it dry for 15 minutes.

Clear-coating
21 - Warm up your clear-coat in the warm water and spray it on the exact same way as the paint. Make sure you coat the case well, but not too much.
22 - Once the clear-coat has dried, get your 1000 grit sandpaper.
23 - Wet-sand the case with 1000 grit sand paper very lightly, because you do not want to break through the clear-coat. The goal is to make the clear-coat a smooth surface.
24 - Once you are done sanding, clean it off with rubbing alcohol and spray with compressed air. Let it dry for 15 minutes.
25 - Warm up your clear-coat and spray another coat on the case in the same sweeping pattern. Let it dry the appropriate amount of time.
26 - Get your 1500 grit sandpaper and lightly wet-sand the case.
27 - When you are done sanding, wipe off the case with rubbing alcohol and spray it down with compressed air. Let it dry for 15 minutes.
28 - Warm up your clear-coat and spray the case for the final time and make sure you do an even, light coat.
29 - Let it dry and get your 2000 grit sandpaper.
30 - Wet-sand the case with 2000 grit sandpaper VERY lightly, just so you get a nice smooth surface. Wipe it down with rubbing alcohol when you are done and then spray it with compressed air.
31 - After it has dried, spray one final coat of clear-coat, but make sure it is very light. You will not be sanding after this coat, so you must make sure you don't get any drips, otherwise you will have to sand and put another coat on.

Letting the case dry
32 - Let your case dry inside your house or in a constant temperature area for about 2 weeks.
33 - Once your case has dried for about 2 weeks then you are done and can go ahead and put your parts in.

That's how it's done. :p
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