Raijintek Ereboss Black Review

Performance and Testing

Raijintek Ereboss Black Review

Performance and Testing

The test set up consisted of the following

Intel i7 3960X [email protected] 1.1v (undervolted) 4.0GHz @ 1.25v 4.4GHz @ 1.35v 4.6GHz @ 1.45v Gigabyte X79 UD3 Corsair Vengeance LP Memory Corsair HX850 V2 Corsair Force GT 60GB Coolermaster Storm Trooper. 

The graphs are now in jpeg format for all the mobile device users out there and are placed in order with the best performing at the top so as to help better visualise where the cooler we're testing comes in the pack.

As usual we'll be testing our coolers at varying levels of overclock and increasing levels of voltage.  This in turn of course means increasing levels of heat which the coolers need to dissipate.  To begin with we start with the undervolted stock speed.  Why undervolted? well if you have things set on "Auto", you may well be using more volts than are actually required to run at the chosen frequency, for example our 3960s will run quite happily at just 1.1volts, solid as a rock, 24/7, and as such we use this as our starting point.

Continuity is very important in testing, and for this reason we keep as many of the potential variables as locked down as possible.  We will be using OCCT in Linpack X64, AVX compatible with all logical cores tested and 90% free memory utilised. The test is set up to run automatically with just a few clicks to set it going.  A 10 minute idle followed by 30 minutes of testing and a 5 minute cool down is the order of the day and brings the total test time per clock speed to 45 minutes.  So as to remove subjectivity in determining whether a CPU has failed, OCCT is set to stop the test and register a fail should the max temp exceed 80 degrees.  In testing we noted that if even just one of the cores exceeds 82 degrees OCCT halts the test and a fail is recorded.

The Ereboss might appear to only be half way up the charts, but take a look at those coolers that are above it.  Most are AIOs with only a handful of tower coolers.

Raijintek Ereboss Black Review

 

 

Turning now to the 4GHz test we up the voltage to 1.25 volts, this is what is deemed normally as stock volts. Something we are always harping on about on the forums is AUTO does not mean stock volts, and normally if you overclocking with "auto" volts the motherboard will be upping the volts much more than needed if you were to do it manually. By whichever means it happens, upping the volts (especially from our 1.1v undervolt) does have a big impact on temps, with an average increase of 10-15 degrees seen in the results.

At the higher levels of heat generated by the increase in voltage required for the 4.0GHz overclock, fan performance, although still a factor becomes less critical, replaced instead by a coolers ability to conduct the heat up the heat pipes and more crucially the total surface area of the fins enabling convection to the atmosphere.  In the case of AIOs and water cooling the surface area of the radiator and the efficiency of the contact plate begin to play more of a role

It's the same at 4GHz with only the Bequiets and the Noctuas bettering it.

Raijintek Ereboss Black Review

 

 

Upping the volts still further we achieve a stable 4.4GHz overclock at 1.35 Volts. It's here we start to separate the wheat from the chaff, with lesser coolers not able to disperse the increased heat effectively. Again we see a jump of 10 degrees or so from the figures at 4GHz. Both the H100 and the well-respected D14 are creeping into the 70s here, indicating that only the cream of the crop will excel at this level. 

The Ereboss is still holding its own at 4,4GHz bettering the majority of the tower coolers, many of which have already slid off the bottom of the charts by not making it to the 4.4GHz test.  Interestingly the Dark Rock 3 and Pro 3 only better the Ereboss by a degree or so.  

Raijintek Ereboss Black Review  

«Prev 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 Next»

Most Recent Comments

27-08-2014, 06:34:18

Robi_G
£30 savings over the darkrock is worth a bit of a fiddle, you could buy a long screwdriver and a decent fan and get change from that.Quote

27-08-2014, 11:05:57

sonsonate
Looks a lot like the HR-02/HR-02 Macho.Quote

27-08-2014, 12:21:40

Wraith
Pretty poor work on the fan mounting but given its size I'd say it'll be a good option for passive cooling.Quote

27-08-2014, 12:39:35

shambles1980
I hate those stupid rubber fan mounts. I prefer the metal spring clips to be honest. (mounting and re mounting never seems to be as easy with the rubber ones) still if it performs well its definitely a better option than the lower end aio's "imo" and at £30 its a really good price. cant see much wrong with it to be honest. personal id change to a 120mm fan probably wouldn't worry that much about the static pressure as the fins don't really look like they are that close together soid probably aim for a CFM focused fan with lower rpm, Then stick them in push pull. id imagine you could get the system acceptably cool with lower noise levels like that.Quote
Reply
x

Register for the OC3D Newsletter

Subscribing to the OC3D newsletter will keep you up-to-date on the latest technology reviews, competitions and goings-on at Overclock3D. We won't share your email address with ANYONE, and we will only email you with updates on site news, reviews, and competitions and you can unsubscribe easily at any time.

Simply enter your name and email address into the box below and be sure to click on the links in the confirmation emails that will arrive in your e-mail shortly after to complete the registration.

If you run into any problems, just drop us a message on the forums.